Feeling some self-pity for staying in my prison cell apartment last Saturday night, I decided to cheer myself up with a gussied up lamb burger. Aside from the ground lamb which I had purchased earlier in the day, I had all of the components to make the fancy burger that I call comfort food (I swear I'm not a snob): pickled ramps that I made the other day, some goat cheese in the fridge, and a brioche roll in the freezer. I began with the ramps, cutting off three ramp bulbs and used them in place of garlic in a basic aioli recipe. I toasted the brioche bun and smeared a generous knife full of the aioli on one side. Preparing the lamb patty, I inserted a small round of goat cheese into the middle of it, then cooked the burger to medium-rare. I topped the patty with a small handful of the tangy pickled ramp leaves and wedged everything between the bun. The onion rings I made to serve alongside the burger were a disaster, but the burger was enough to make me forget their soggy mediocrity. It was absolute perfection, especially when washed down with a couple Sixpoint beers and a few episodes of The Wire. Not bad work for a Saturday night.