Lamb Tongue Confit with Lentils and Gremolata

After posting about my lamb tongue confit last week, the reaction I received ranged from intrigue to disgust.  This post is more for those who were curious as to how I would serve the lamb tongues, although I hope that it just may win over a few of you horrified readers as well.  An under-appreciated (at least when it comes to the culinary world) organ like tongue deserves a similarly under-appreciated accompaniment, so I served it over a humble bowl of lentils.  In order to brighten up both the flavor and the color of this heavy, brown dish, I topped each bowl with a spoonful of gremolata.  The one rule to follow with lamb tongue no matter how you serve it is to disguise it by slicing it thinly.  The meat is delicious—distinctively lamby and not too far off from lamb shank—and has surprisingly appetizing texture, but no one really want to be confronted with a shimmering tongue on a plate.  So whether you tell them about the mystery meat or not, do your guests a favor and slice it thin.  That way, few will complain when you slip them a little tongue. 

Lamb Tongue Confit with Lentils and Gremolata
Serves 4
 

Ingredients:

• 8 confit lamb tongues

For the lentils:

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 celery stalk, finely chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• salt and pepper
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 3 sprigs thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1.5 cups water
• 1 cup French lentils

For the gremolata:

• 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tsp garlic, minced
• 1 tsp grated lemon zest

Directions:

1. To make the lentils, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a medium sauce pan.  Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and beginning to brown, approximately 10 minutes.  Season the vegetables with salt and pepper as they cook. 
2. Add the tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf to the pan.  Stir to coat all of the vegetables with the tomato paste and let the mixture cook for about 2 minutes.
3. Pour the water into the pan and bring to a boil.
4. Stir in the lentils and let the mixture return to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer. 
5. Partially cover the pan and cook until the lentils are tender, 30 to 45 minutes.  Taste the lentils for salt and pepper and keep warm over low heat.
6. As the lentils cook, make the gremolata by combining the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest in a small bowl.
7. Heat the lamb tongues (a minute or two in the microwave works fine) and slice them thinly.
8. Serve the lentils in individual bowls, topped with slices of lamb tongue and a spoonful of the gremolata.  

Lamb Tongue Confit

 

My curiosity tends to get the best of me when I see strange cuts of meat at the butcher.  I may be in line to buy pork chops, but if I see duck hearts behind the glass, all thoughts of pork go out the window. God help me the day I spot a bull penis.

The other day, I went to one of my favorite butcher's, Dickson's Farmstand Meats, to pick up some pretty standard fare: lamb chops, bacon, and pork shoulder.  As I was picking out my lamb chops, I noticed a small pile of what looked exactly I imagined a lamb tongue would look like.  Sure enough, the butcher confirmed that the ugly things that looked just like tongues, were indeed tongues.  I never imagined that one could even eat a lamb's tongue, so after seeing them, I had to buy them.  I purchased all seven of the tongues, which I assume must be exactly how many lambs the shop had butchered in the past few days because who else in their right mind would purchase the things?

Being from Dickson's, the lamb tongues I purchased were from local, sustainably raised lambs, which I'm going to assume hope means that my tongues had only touched wholesome things (one can only imagine what Lindsay Lohan's tongue must taste like...eek).  In other words, I had to do these tongues justice.  My first thought was to braise them which is usually the method I choose when I have no clue how else to cook something, but I wanted do something that was less familiar.  After doing some research, I found that confiting was a popular method of cooking lamb tongues.

This marked my first time confiting anything, but the method is pretty standard no matter what meat you choose to confit.  The first step is to cure the meat in a mixture of salt and herbs.  I purchased about a pound of lamb tongues and used one-and-one-third teaspoons of salt, a minced shallot, a minced garlic clove, a teaspoon of black pepper, and a teaspoon of herbs de Provence.  So long as you keep the meat to salt ratio the same, you can experiment with any combination of seasonings.  I rubbed this mixture all of the lamb tongues, covered them, and placed them in the refrigerator overnight to soak in all the good flavors.

The next day, I removed the tongues from the refrigerator, rinsed off the seasonings, and patted them dry.  I then place the tongues in a cast iron pot, covered them with olive oil, covered the pot, and placed them in a 225 degree oven.  I cooked the tongues until they were tender, which took about 3 hours.  I then let them cool enough so that I could handle them. 

Once cool enough to handle, I peeled the skin off of each tongue and cut off the core.  I have to admit that this part made me slightly squeamish as the tongues feel like...tongues.  Once I got over that, it was easy as the skin peels right away. Here is how they looked after removing the skins:

I then placed the tongues back into the oil, making sure that there was enough oil to cover them, and put them in the refrigerator for a later use.  They will keep for a couple of weeks.

Now that I have a container full of lamb tongue confit, I have a few ideas of how to use them.  In salads or over lentils or beans are my first thoughts, but what about you?  How would you serve lamb tongue confit?

Lamb Chops with Artichokes, Olives and Capers

After having this blog for over two years, I've managed to cook a lot of foods that I otherwise might not have attempted if I did not have the blog to keep me searching for challenges.  Artichokes are one ingredient that I had not yet gotten myself to cook.  With their green pineapple-like appearance, they just look like they would be a lot of work to prepare.

While I like artichokes, I do not love them, and I assumed the effort they would take to cook would outweigh they satisfaction they would bring. However, it being New Year's Day yesterday, I was feeling particularly ambitious despite being slightly under the weather from the previous evening's debauchery.  I had purchased some lamb chops and wanted to do something interesting and festive with them.  I spotted a box of baby artichokes at the store and recalled a recipe in Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home that paired lamb chops with artichokes.  Given my apprehensions about cooking artichokes in the first place, I'm not sure why I even considered a Thomas Keller preparation, which surely would be extremely nitpicky about trimming the vegetables just so and take twice as long as any other recipe; I'll blame my decision on the alcohol from the night before. 

To my surprise, even going by Chef Keller's precise directions, the preparing the artichokes was no more difficult than peeling a carrot (and a lot less dangerous!).  Trim off the stem.  Cut off the outer leaves at the base. Trim the top 1/2 inch of the artichoke, and then they are ready to cook.  It's exactly as easy as it sounds.  As for the lamb chops, well they went perfectly with the Mediterranean sauce of the artichokes, olives, capers, and tomatoes.  I can only hope that this dish bodes well for 2011.

Lamb Chops with Artichokes, Olives and Capers
Adapted from Ad Hoc at Home
Serves 2

Ingredients:

• 6 baby artichokes, cleaned and trimmed as per the instructions above
• juice of 1 lemon
• salt and pepper
• 4 lamb loin chops
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed and skin left on
• 4 thyme springs
• 1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives
• 1 tbsp capers, drained
• 1/4 cup canned roasted tomatoes

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.
   
2. Put the trimmed artichokes in medium bowl and cover with the water and lemon juice.  Stir the artichokes for a few seconds.
3. Pour the artichokes and lemon water into a medium sauce pan.  If necessary, pour in additional water to cover.  Add a pinch of salt and place a damp kitchen towel on top of the artichokes to ensure that they remain completely submerged. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat and cook until the artichokes are completely tender, 10 to 15 minutes.  Remove the artichokes to a medium bowl and add just enough of the cooking water to cover.  Set aside.
4. Season the lamb chops on both sides with salt and pepper.
5. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
6. Add the lamb chops and cook until well-browned on one side, 3 to 4 minutes.  Flip the lamb chops and cook the other side until well-browned, 2 to 3 minutes.  Add the garlic cloves and thyme to the pan.  Baste the chops occasionally with the fat in the pan.
7. Place the skillet in the oven and cook until the lamb chops are cooked through, about 7 to 8 minutes for medium-rare.  Remove from the oven and allow the chops rest for 5 to 10 minutes. 
8. While the lamb chops are in the oven, prepare the sauce.  Pour 1 tbsp olive oil in a medium sauce pan and heat over medium heat.  Add the artichokes and cook for about a minute.  Add the olives and capers and cook for another 30 seconds.  Add the tomatoes and cook for another 2 minutes.  Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper.
9. Serve the lamb chops immediately, topped with the artichoke sauce. 

Manicotti filled with a Little Something Something

One of my favorite meals growing up was my mother's manicotti.  I always assumed it just like all the other mom foods we love.  Crepes filled with ricotta cheese and topped with a little tomato sauce.  Easy, right?

I thought wrong.  After making these lamb-filled crepes this weekend, I now realize that I should have given my mom more credit for her manicotti.  Everything on down to the crepes was easy to prepare, but those pancakes sure were a doozy!  The technique sounded easy enough to me: a little butter in a non-stick pan, swirl the batter around, cook, flip, and cook a bit more.  But after several ugly, broken crepes and more batter over the Significant Eater's stovetop than she wants to know, I realized that I had to make some changes to my crepe technique.  I finally figured that the key to a good crepe is to keep it thin, stupid.  By putting just enough batter to cover the pan, the crepe will nearly cook through so that when you flip it, it will stay in tact.  Once I figure that out, I was a crepe-making machine, turning out a flawless crepe every few minutes.

Aside from the crepe part, this dish is the simple kind of component cooking I love.  It sounds intricate— braised meat, crepes, tomato sauce#151;but every component can be made well ahead of time.  Even better, you can turn this dish into anything you please by using the flavor profile of your choosing.  While I used braised lamb and flavored the ricotta with mint,  you could try braised pork shoulder and sage-flavored ricotta, or short ribs with rosemary ricotta.  Even crab and parsley ricotta with a pink sauce.  To that end, in order to keep you all on your creative tiptoes, I've made this recipe as ambiguous as possible. 


Manicotti filled with the Cook's Choice

Ingredients:

For the crepes:

1. 2 cups whole milk
2. 1 1/2 cups plus 2 tbsp flour
3. 4 eggs, lightly beaten
4. 4 tbsp butter, melted
5. 1/2 tsp salt

For the ricotta filling:

• 2 lbs braised meat of your choice, shredded with a fork
• 1/4 cup herbs of your choice
• 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 cups good-quality fresh ricotta cheese

• Tomato sauce of your choice, preferably homemade
• Pecorino Romano cheese, grated

Directions:

1. Mix the crepe ingredients together in a large bowl.  Strain and refrigerate overnight.
2. Mix together the ingredients for the crepe filling.
3. Heat the tomato sauce.
4. Preheat the oven to 375F.
5. To make the crepes, heat a medium-size nonstick pan over medium heat and brush it with melted butter.  Ladle a quarter cup of the crepe batter into the pan and swirl the batter around so that the bottom of the pan is entirely coated (you want the crepe to be very thin).  Let the crepe cook for 1 to 2 minute until it is nearly cooked through.  Carefully flip the crepe and cook the other side for another minute.  Remove the crepe to a plate.  Repeat this technique with the rest of the batter, stacking the crepes on a plate.  This should make approximately 15 to 20 crepes.
6. To make the manicotti, fill the center of each crepe with about 1/3 cup of the ricotta filling.  Wrap each crepe and place seam-side down in a greased casserole dish.  
7. Place the casserole dish in the oven and cook until the sides of the manicotti begin to brown, 7 to 10 minutes.
8. Top the manicotti with the heated tomato sauce and grated Pecorino Romano cheese and serve immediately.

Hunan Lamb Ribs

 

For those of you who have tried the famous cumin lamb at New York's Szechuan Gourmet, these lamb ribs will have some familiar flavors.  While the recipe is comes from Sichuan's neighboring province of Hunan, the intensity of the cumin, richness of the lamb, and spice from the chiles all give these ribs a delicious resemblance to what is in my mind one of the best dishes in all of New York. If you do end up making these ribs, just remember that lamb ribs aren't quite as easy to handle as pork ribs, so do your guests a favor and cut the meat off the bone before serving it.

Hunan Lamb Ribs

Adapted from Fuschia Dunlop's Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook 

Serves 2

Ingredients:

• 2 slabs lamb ribs (about 2 lbs)
• 4 tbsp Shaoxing wine
• 2 cinnamon sticks
• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, thinly sliced
• 1 star anise
• 5 dried Chinese chiles
• 2 tbsp soy sauce
• 2 tbsp sweet bean sauce
• 1/4 tsp five-spice powder
• salt
• 6 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced
• 4 tbsp peanut oil
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 tsp sesame oil

Directions:

1. Place the ribs in a large pot and cover with cold water.  Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.  Add 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine, 2 cinnamon sticks, the ginger, star anise, and dried chiles to the water and simmer the lamb for 5 minutes.  Drain the ribs and set them aside on a plate.
2. Mix the soy sauce, bean sauce, 2 tbsp Shaoxing wine, five-spice powder, and a pinch of  in a small bowl.
3. Massage the soy sauce mixture into the lamb ribs.
4. Heat the peanut oil in a large skillet over high heat.  
5. Add the ribs to the skillet and cook until well-browned on one side, about 3 minutes.  Flip the ribs and sprinkle the cumin and pepper flakes over the ribs.  Continue cooking until the other side is well-browned, 2 to 3 minutes. 
6. Using a sharp knife, slice the meat off of the bones and set the meat on a plate.  
7. Drizzle the sesame oil on top of lamb, garnish it with scallions, and serve immediately. 
   

Lamb Burger with Goat Cheese, Pickled Ramp Leaves and Aioli

Feeling some self-pity for staying in my prison cell apartment last Saturday night, I decided to cheer myself up with a gussied up lamb burger.  Aside from the ground lamb which I had purchased earlier in the day, I had all of the components to make the fancy burger  that I call comfort food (I swear I'm not a snob): pickled ramps that I made the other day, some goat cheese in the fridge, and a brioche roll in the freezer.  I began with the ramps, cutting off three ramp bulbs and used them in place of garlic in a basic aioli recipe.  I toasted the brioche bun and smeared a generous knife full of the aioli on one side.  Preparing the lamb patty, I inserted a small round of goat cheese into the middle of it, then cooked the burger to medium-rare.  I topped the patty with a small handful of the tangy pickled ramp leaves and wedged everything between the bun.  The onion rings I made to serve alongside the burger were a disaster, but the burger was enough to make me forget their soggy mediocrity. It was absolute perfection, especially when washed down with a couple Sixpoint beers and a few episodes of The Wire.  Not bad work for a Saturday night.

Braised Lamb Shanks with Lentils and Curry

Although I love the flavor of curry powder, I find that it tends to overpower dishes.  I have made a number of recipes that use curry powder as the central flavoring component, and they all have tasted about the same regardless what other ingredients are used in the recipe.  My past results have made me avoid recipes with curry powder; what's the point of stressing over a new recipe if it will taste just like another one you have made before?

Fortunately, I let my prior experiences with Molly Stevens' recipes outweigh my experiences with curry powder and tried her recipe for Braised Lamb Shanks with Lentils and Curry from All About Braising.  In this braise, the curry powder is noticeable, but plays a supporting role to the aromatics, lamb broth, and tomatoes that make up the slightly spicy braising liquid; a good baguette is a necessity for sopping up the last few spoonfuls of the liquid.  Lentils are a natural accompaniment to lamb and this dish is no exception.  Lamb, lentils, and a crunchy baguette and you have yourself perfection in a bowl. 

Lamb Shanks Braised with Lentils & Curry
Adapted from All About Braising 

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 6 lamb shanks
• salt and pepper
• 1 red onion, coarsely chopped
• 2 carrots, coarsely chopped
• 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/2 tbsp Madras curry powder
• 1 tbsp plus 1/2 tbsp thyme leaves, chopped 
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cup canned whole peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped
• 2 cups lamb stock
• 1/2 lb French lentils
• 1/4 cup parsley leaves, chopped
• lemon wedges or red wine vinegar for serving

Directions:
Heat the oven to 300F.
Dry the lamb shanks with a paper towel and season them with salt and pepper. 
Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large braising dish.  Add as many lamb shanks as will comfortably fit in the pan and cook until well browned on all sides, about 12 minutes.  Set the shanks on a plate and brown the remaining batches.
Discard all but 2 tbsp of fat from the braising dish.  Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. 
Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the garlic.  Cook for 2 minutes.
Add the curry powder, 1 tbsp of the thyme, and 1 bay leaf.  Cook for 1 minute.
Stir in the tomatoes and stock.  Raise the heat to high and bring the liquid to a boil.  Let the liquid boil for 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon a few times to dislodge the brown bits that stick to the bottom of the pan.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and nestle in the lamb shanks.  Let the liquid return to a simmer then cover the braising dish and add it to the oven.  Braise for 2.5 hours, flipping the lamb shanks once as they cook.  
Meanwhile, parcook the lentils while the lamb cooks.  Add the lentils, 6 cups of water,  a 1/2 tbsp of thyme, and 1 bay leaf to a large pot and bring the mixture to a boil.  Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook the lentils for 30 minutes.  Drain the lentils and set them aside to cool on a large plate.
Once the lamb shanks have braised for 2.5 hours, remove the braising dish from the oven.  Set the lamb shanks on a plate.  Stir the lentils into the braising liquid and add the lamb shanks back to the braising dish and cover the dish.  Continue to braise the lamb in the oven until the lamb is falling off the bone and then lentils are tender, approximately 30 minutes.
Remove the lamb shanks from the braising dish and set them on a plate.  Taste the braising liquid for salt and pepper.  Spoon the lentils with the braising liquid into serving bowls and top each bowl with a lamb shank.  Garnish the bowls with the chopped parsley.  Serve immediately, allowing your guests to sprinkle a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice over their bowl if desired.

Lamb Ragu

 

If you need to give yourself something to look forward to this winter, make like an Italian grandmother and whip up a big pot of ragu.  Just don’t tell your Italian grandmother you're making lamb ragu, and a recipe from a fancy-pants New York chef at that.  So maybe it’s not all that authentic, but you have to try Andrew Carmellini’s recipe for lamb ragu from Urban Italian.  All it takes is about 15 minutes of effort, and then you can sit on your couch for a few hours watching Seinfeld re-runs as your kitchen emanates aromas that will warm your entire home.  Try your best to pick up lamb meat from the shoulder—grind your own or ask your butcher to grind it— as the leaner cuts of meat will not be as tender.  It's also worth the effort to scrounge around for canned cherry tomatoes which have a sweet quality that complements lamb nicely.  

Lamb Ragu 

Adapted from Urban Italian

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1.5 lbs ground lamb, preferably from the shoulder
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
• 1 celery stalk, diced
• 1 small yellow onion, diced
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 1.5 cups  dry red wine
• 1 cup canned cherry or San Marzano tomatoes 
• 3 cups chicken brother
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp ground fennel
• 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
• 1 tbsp thyme leaves
• 1 tbsp rosemary leaves, chopped
• salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 lb fresh pappardelle
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1/4 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese
• 1/4 cup mint, chopped
• sheep-milk ricotta cheese, for serving 

Directions:

1. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.
2. Add the lamb to the pot.  As the lamb cooks, break it apart with the back of a wooden spoon.  Stir the lamb occasionally until it is browned, about 5 minutes.   If necessary, pour out any excess liquid that accumulates the pot as you cook the lamb; the liquid will steam, rather than brown, the lamb. 
3. Add the carrot, celery, and onion to the pot.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 2 minutes.
4. Add the tomato paste to the pot and stir well for 1 minute.
5. Pour the red wine into the pot.  Use a wooden spoon to dislodge any browned bits from the bottom of the pot.  Bring the wine to a boil and cook until the wine evaporates completely, about 5 minutes.  
6. Add the tomatoes, chicken broth, bay leaves, cumin, coriander, fennel, red pepper flakes, thyme, and rosemary to the pot.  Stir well to incorporate the ingredients.  Season with salt and pepper.
7. Bring the ragu to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer.  Cook the sauce until the ingredients are well incorporated and the excess liquid has evaporated, about 2 hours.  Taste the ragu for salt and pepper and keep warm over low heat.
8. Cook the pappardelle in boiling salted water until it is al dente.  Drain the pasta and add it to the ragu.
9. Add the butter and mint to the pasta and stir it well until the ragu clings to the noodles.  Serve the pasta immediately, topped with a drizzle of olive oil, the grated pecorino, and a dollop of ricotta cheese.   

 

Lamb Chops with Mint Pesto

Mint is a perfect accompaniment to lamb. The lemon juice in this mint pesto adds a sour note that brightens up the the sauce, making it a great dish for spring.

Lamb Chops with Mint Pesto
Serves 4

Ingredients:

• 2 cups mint leaves, loosely packed
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice
• 1/4 cup toasted walnuts
• 1/4 cup
• 1 small garlic clove
• Salt and pepper
• 2 tbsp. grape seed oil
• 8 lamb rib chops

Directions:

1. Combine mint, lemon juice, walnuts, 1/4 cup oil, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until well blended. Add salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
2. Dry lamb chops with paper towels and season on both sides with salt and pepper.
3. Heat 2 tbsp. grape seed oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet.
4. Add lamb chops to skillet and cook, 2 minutes per side for medium-rare.
5. Let lamb chops rest for a few minutes. Serve with mint pesto.

Rogan Josh (Lamb Curry)

I try my best not to let my job interfere with my cooking. Unfortunately, this is sometimes inevitable. After an early morning run, 10+ hours at the office, and a workout at the gym, I rarely have the time, the energy, or the mental capacity to toil over the stove. If it’s not leftovers, I’m usually sticking to quick and simple recipes during the week. In an effort to have leftovers I can eat for dinner over the course of a week, I tend to make a braised dish, a casserole, or roast a chicken on Sundays.

Having picked up a good amount of lamb shoulder from 3 Corner Field Farm at the Greenmarket the other day, I decided I’d try my luck at curry. I had never made an Indian-style curry before, so I searched the internet for one that sounded authentic. I came upon this recipe for Rogan Josh from Madhur Jaffrey. Silly name notwithstanding (I can’t help but think of Seth Rogen standing over a pot of curry, which is probably borderline blasphemous to Indian cuisine), I knew this would be a good Indian dish to start with since Madhur Jaffrey is one of the top Indian cookbook authors, not to mention actresses. I had also received my first shipment of Rancho Gordo heirloom beans, so I decided to serve my lamb curry alongside some curried Christmas limas.

I spent the better part of Sunday afternoon preparing the curry, and soaking and cooking the beans. When I came home from work today, I put on a pot of rice. For the beans, I stir fried a chopped onion for a few minutes, then added minced garlic and fried another minute. Then I added a little over a tablespoon of curry powder, beans, about a cup of the bean cooking liquid, and salt and pepper. I simmered the bean mixture for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, I reheated the curry, added 1/4 teaspoon of Penzey’s garam masala, pepper to season. Voila! An excellent dinner was ready in under 30 minutes.

Rogan Josh with Curried Christmas Limas and Rice